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Cashmere

Cashmere fiber comes from the under coat of the cashmere goat, which originated in the Kashmir province of northern India (surprisingly, very little cashmere comes from Kashmir).

Most cashmere comes from the high plateaus of Asia where its supply continues to be subject to political troubles in the area. China, Mongolia, Afghanistan, Iran, and Tibet are significant suppliers of the fiber.

Recently Australia and the United States have started raising cashmere goats, but the industry in both countries is still too new to have had a significant effect on the cashmere supply.

The cashmere goat's luxurious fleece developed as an adaptation to living at 12,000 to 15,000 feet in an extremely inhospitable environment (by weight, cashmere has more insulating power than any other natural fiber). The best fleece comes from the highest elevations with reduced quality as one descends.

The fiber is collected during the molting season in spring. Generally, isolated herders comb the fleece from each goat. However goats in Iran, Afghanistan, New Zealand, United States, and Australia are sheared. Combed fibers are considered to be higher in quality than those that are sheared because they are longer (for natural fibers in general—the longer the fiber, the better).

After the fiber is combed from the goat, the coarse guard hairs are removed. The final result for all this labor-intensive toil averages about 4 to 6 ounces of soft undercoat fiber per goat for which the herder receives little.

Cashmere is frequently woven into coating and suiting fabrics with a high nap and loft. These warm and lightweight fabrics are also extravagantly soft, itchless, and pliant. They have a beautiful drape and rarely wrinkle.

While cashmere is warmer and softer than wool, it's not as strong. It's often blended with wool to make a stronger and more economical fabric that's still delightfully soft and luxurious.

Cashmere makes wonderful jackets, coats, tailored pants and skirts, and robes.

Preshrink cashmere by steam pressing.

For best results when sewing, use the "with nap" layout, good quality thread, and an 80/12 H needle. Use care while pressing, because cashmere is easily pulled out of shape when warm and damp. Follow the "Golden Rules of Pressing," making sure not to pull on the edges of the fabric.

As cashmere doesn't ravel, seam allowances in a lined garment don't need to be finished. In an unlined garment, a Hong Kong finish is an elegant touch.

Cashmere knits as well as simple, unstructured garments, such as robes, can be gently handwashed while garments such as tailored jackets, coats, and pants should be dry cleaned.

 

 

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