Use this procedure to prepare fabric intended for "Dry-Clean Only" garments (as opposed to garments that you plan to wash at home).

Although cashmere is more expensive than "every day cotton," all natural fibers behave the same way when first exposed to heat and moisture: they shrink. This happens because the moisture causes the threads to relax from the tension they’ve been held under on the loom. This type of shrinkage (called residual shrinkage) is a one time event and different fibers will show different amounts of shrinkage.

To determine if you will need to preshrink your fabric, you’ll need to test it for shrinkage. Cover a large section of a corner of the fabric with a dry press cloth and steam thoroughly for 10 seconds. Allow the fabric to completely dry. If you can see where the fabric was pressed, the outline of the iron, or puckers around the steamed area, preshrink the fabric by having the dry cleaner steam press it (it doesn’t need to be cleaned unless it’s dirty) or preshrink it yourself.

Reputable manufacturers of "Dry-Clean Only" tagged garments conduct a similar test on fabric samples when deciding which to use. They will buy fabric that is either needle ready (preshrunk) from the mill (as in London Shrunk wool) or they know that the fabric they are using will not shrink enough to change the fit of the garment.

There are two methods that the home sewer can use to preshrink fabric. Neither is difficult but both can be tedious and awkward if you don't have a large pressing or working area.

The most common method is by steam pressing. To stream press fabric, hold a steam iron just above the surface of the fabric. Work in small areas, making sure that each has been thoroughly steamed (it should be damp) before moving on to an adjacent area. Do not move, tug or, or otherwise mess with the fabric until it is dry.

You can also preshrink your fabric by the London Shrunk method. Fold your fabric with the selvedges and right sides together and the ends straight and even and enclose it in a damp sheet. Starting at the end, roll this sheet sandwich around a rolled up towel (this helps prevent wrinkles). Leave the fabric untouched overnight then unroll the bundle on a flat surface (a bed covered in plastic garbage bags works) and gently (don’t tug!) smooth out any large wrinkles. Let the fabric completely dry and then press (using a press cloth if necessary) to remove any remaining wrinkles.

If you have a small pressing area, you may find that the London Shrunk method is more convenient and takes less of your time.

So, in summary:

• Test your fabric by steam pressing a corner.

• If the test area shows shrinkage, preshrink the fabric yourself (by steam pressing or the London Shrunk method) or have the dry cleaner do it for you.

We support: