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Sewing with Slippery Fabric
Chiffon, georgette, and charmeuse can be made from silk, polyester, and rayon. Chiffon has a plain weave with a very soft drape (chiffon is French for rag). Georgette is a very sheer crepe, which is neither as soft nor as smooth as chiffon. Charmeuse is an elegant, luxurious, and supple fabric with a lustrous satin face and a dull back. All make lovely, feminine garments and are often seen in evening dresses and bridal gowns.
Unfortunately, they can be difficult to work with because they are slippery, light weight, and easily snagged. The following tips will help.
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Layout: Laying down a base layer of paper (medical examination paper or butcher paper works great), the fabric, and then the pattern pieces prevents the fabric from slipping and sliding while you’re cutting. Keeping the pins in the seam allowances (pin holes can leave permanent marks), pin the pattern through both the fabric and the base paper or use plenty of pattern weights to hold the pattern to the fabric.
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Cutting: A very sharp rotary cutter gives the best results. Dull scissors are certain to produce pulls and snags.
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Needle: Use a new 60/8 H/Universal or 65/9 H/Universal needle.
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Sewing: Sewing machines frequently pull light weight fabrics through the hole in the throat plate, which permanently mars the fabric. If you have a special straight stitch throat plate, use it. If not, use a piece of tape to reduce the size of the hole in the throat plate. If seams pucker try shortening the stitch length.
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Interfacing: Use self-fabric or skin-colored silk organza for interfacing.
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Facing: Facings look unattractive with sheer fabric. Use binding instead.
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Seams: French seams and very narrow or rolled hems are the most attractive.
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