Stretch velvet combines the wonderful drape and luxury of velvet with the ease and comfort of a knit. Velvet is woven as a double cloth with an extra set of warp yarns woven between the layers to create the velvet pile. The layers then are cut with a knife to form the pile. Stretch velvet has a knit background fabric which is most often polyester blended with a Lycra. It stretches 25% to 35% (or more) across the grain and has a wonderful drape. It's suitable for tops, shirts, dresses, skirts, pull-on pants, vests, easy jackets, coats and shorts. Tend towards simple classic lines with a minimum of darts, seams, buttonholes, and topstitching because decorative details get lost in the pile.

Don't let what you may have heard about sewing with velvet scare you away from stretch velvet. They're two different animals. When you're working with stretch velvet, it helps to think of it as a glorified knit. You'll follow the same steps you use for regular knits with a few exceptions. These exceptions are the result of stretch velvet's nap—it shows marks easily and the face of the fabric can be slippery or sticky.

Preshrinking
All knits shrink to some degree, so make sure to preshrink your fabric. Most stretch velvet can be machine washed and dried. However, if the fabric has a metallic design or print, it's best to wash the fabric on the delicate cycle and let it drip dry to preserve the design.

If you have questions about the fit of the finished garment, make a test garment first. Ripped stitches and needle holes leave permanent marks on stretch velvet.

Layout and cutting
Use a "with nap" layout for cutting. You can use one or two layers when cutting out stretch velvet. For two layers, fold the fabric with wrong sides together to ensure that the faces don't catch on each other. You can cut the fabric with the pile running up or down. Make sure than each piece is laid out in the same direction (unless you want a two-toned garment). The fabric will look lighter in color, smoother, and shinier with the nap running down toward the hem and deeper and richer with the nap running up from the hem.

Use weights to hold pattern pieces in place. A rotary cutter works well with stretch velvet—it's very fast and prevents any stretching of the fabric.

Marking
Place essential markings on the back of the fabric using chalk or marking pens and snip notches in the seam allowances. If you need to mark the right side of the fabric, use silk thread.

Interfacing
Use a 100% polyester fusible lightweight knit interfacing like Fusi Knit to reinforce closures, add shaping to collars, cuffs and plackets, and stabilize areas such as shoulder seams and some necklines.

Needle and Thread
For the best results, use a new ball-point needle (size 10/70 or 11/75 for lightweight fabrics, 12/80 for medium weight fabrics and 12/80 or 14/90 for heavyweight fabrics) and a good quality all purpose thread.

Sewing
On a straight stitch machines sew the seam using a medium stitch length stretching the fabric in the front and back of the presser foot as you sew. Sew another seam on the seam allowance ¼" from the first seam. Trim the seam allowance to the edge of the second seam. Don't sew over pins—they leave marks on the fabric.

If you have a serger, you can use a three or four thread overlock stitch. If you prefer more control, use a straight stitch machine to sew the original seam as described above and then trim and overcast using the serger.

Pressing
When pressing stretch velvet, make sure the iron is set at the right temperature for a synthetic. Stretch velvet can be pressed from either side.

Closures
For really special buttonholes, try using embroidery thread on top and in the bobbin. If you use two spools on top (thread them through the needle as one), you'll get a raised, lustrous buttonhole. Make several test buttonholes to ensure that you and your machine like the results.

If your garment needs a zipper, you'll get the best results using an invisible zipper.

Hems
Finish the edge of the hem using sheer nylon bias tape, or by serging. Sew the hem with a catchstitch by hand or use the blind hem on your machine (test to make sure you like the results).

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